tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18774042552399664982024-02-07T01:17:50.225-08:00Disobedient TigerDisobedient Tigerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06944114842337202900noreply@blogger.comBlogger25125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1877404255239966498.post-71813166727449113802014-03-18T17:05:00.003-07:002014-03-18T17:16:44.473-07:00R/C P-38 and another crashI fixed her up and took her for a spin.<br />
It was relatively calm, just a little gusting.<br />
<br />
Well, by the time I got started, the wind picked up. I should have aborted, but I am stubborn.<br />
<br />
As soon as I got it in the air, I lost control.<br />
<br />
I thought I managed to get it back, and tried to enter a left-hand pattern.<br />
<br />
Suddenly, a huge gust kicked up, and she went down. Hard.<br />
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Overview<br />
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Both tail booms took serious damage.<br />
<br />
<span id="goog_539767110"></span><span id="goog_539767111"></span>The battery popped out, I had to hunt for it.<br />
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Left aileron is almost disconnected<br />
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Left and right props are wonky. I don't know if I can fix them. Or by a new set... Or<br />
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<br />Disobedient Tigerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06944114842337202900noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1877404255239966498.post-31547697420312650302014-03-16T18:04:00.002-07:002014-03-16T18:08:37.975-07:00R/C P-38 and hard landingsso a friend is trying desperately to get me into R/C airplanes. So he surprised me with a Flyzone P-38. It is a micro plane, 4oz tops.<br />
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<br />
Well I am not a particularly good pilot. Two flights, two crashes.<br />
<br />
First flight ended in a nose dive. Broke the nose right off. Fortunately, the nose protected the props. The fix was pretty easy. Good as new.<br />
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Second flight. Much better. I even controlled it in heavy winds. Unfortunately, I can't tell whether it is coming or going, and I flew it imto an oak tree. I ripped the tail off trying to get it down.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHzbB-HNhtnUgHddeBtq_mh6vSyTpAumGHzNWim1P2gWzaJ_YHxFP9xg6oHiL3wIITN1VviJScYykJLEeaqskWBWBCh7uFANsCfClK_13oni4y9WCNM1RGdgDRypHYt7Gh_982B82PueY/s1600/20140316_190045.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHzbB-HNhtnUgHddeBtq_mh6vSyTpAumGHzNWim1P2gWzaJ_YHxFP9xg6oHiL3wIITN1VviJScYykJLEeaqskWBWBCh7uFANsCfClK_13oni4y9WCNM1RGdgDRypHYt7Gh_982B82PueY/s1600/20140316_190045.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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I am gluing it back now. Maybe a 3rd flight this week. 3rd time's the charm, right?Disobedient Tigerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06944114842337202900noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1877404255239966498.post-35518715441177835992011-07-15T11:04:00.000-07:002011-07-15T11:22:55.795-07:00Turtle Hat<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM4cBlT7ESqZJXLfY7hnyxDC8dnToU2BYhZbDLKric56J4x3WXy4EPYAiZMRhbLxvcvP0RSOhdfif4yR9bJC78ZEfVEL5mzrS2liSRU2oPjXtys1VgDdyY2zki9Xv6zwHP0w_kc_WRbM8/s1600/turtlefront.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM4cBlT7ESqZJXLfY7hnyxDC8dnToU2BYhZbDLKric56J4x3WXy4EPYAiZMRhbLxvcvP0RSOhdfif4yR9bJC78ZEfVEL5mzrS2liSRU2oPjXtys1VgDdyY2zki9Xv6zwHP0w_kc_WRbM8/s400/turtlefront.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5629645652249545570" /></a></div><br />I learned to knit when I was deathly ill on New Year's.<div>After the perfunctory "hello world" of knitting, a scarf, I tried to do something a little more interesting. </div><div>I came across some "hairy" yarn in a mossy green color. I decided to make a "turtle shell" hat.</div><div><br /></div><div>This was my first real project. I didn't have a pattern; so I made it up on the fly. The first attempt was HUGE. Yeah, round 2.</div><div><br /></div><div>I shrunk it and did a 2x2 rib. I used 2 continuous strings (green and brown). When I was done, it was gorgeous. Super cute, perfect, and.... SMALL.</div><div>It was so tightly knit from carrying the 2 lines the whole time. I gave it to a friend for her doll.</div><div><br /></div><div>I was so frustrated, that I promised to never do it again. Instead I did a simple grey hat, fast, easy and pretty.</div><div><br /></div><div>Then I got the itch to try the turtle hat again. This time I ran 12 lines! One for each color and patch. It was a difficult task to keep everything straight, but it worked. This time it was JUST RIGHT. </div><div>I gave it to my niece(nicknamed "Princess Turtle"). I would like to thank her for being my model.</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR-yiUU8qoXoMtwm-_Na0-ju92u94rOZsM5P3DynFvbdNfB_SQggnly7SgZQRfAjpuwKf61x2UebCupJXzAy9UHv2iZxcg4bqkJ_vVzO3rctmtuJ-z53z14ftUw5T-zEcfnZKvTZ4Tr-I/s1600/turtlepattern.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR-yiUU8qoXoMtwm-_Na0-ju92u94rOZsM5P3DynFvbdNfB_SQggnly7SgZQRfAjpuwKf61x2UebCupJXzAy9UHv2iZxcg4bqkJ_vVzO3rctmtuJ-z53z14ftUw5T-zEcfnZKvTZ4Tr-I/s400/turtlepattern.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5629645953833294370" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRWjtCWKAj9twsYeIHZc2IGA2gaV98I9En5Qjj-_ErmDoEVUGhyp0W_Shh64HIYT0Wztrt80aBsyoZpA6yZ32A6cYFtPFKoz1XPI1M59J2YBROWuCdNvD-qpS_Nx4cOYA_fK3bwAGexCk/s1600/turtleside.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRWjtCWKAj9twsYeIHZc2IGA2gaV98I9En5Qjj-_ErmDoEVUGhyp0W_Shh64HIYT0Wztrt80aBsyoZpA6yZ32A6cYFtPFKoz1XPI1M59J2YBROWuCdNvD-qpS_Nx4cOYA_fK3bwAGexCk/s400/turtleside.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5629645879655687730" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>Disobedient Tigerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06944114842337202900noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1877404255239966498.post-70384165832881364172011-06-17T15:49:00.000-07:002011-06-17T16:20:08.295-07:00Spy Trakr: Headphone Jack<div style="text-align: left;">The first hack everyone does to the Spy Trakr is to install a headphone jack. I jumped on the band wagon. My biggest issue was the mic-speaker feedback when I had the Spy Trakr next to the remote; LOUD!</div><div><br /></div><div>So I opted for headphone jack AND a volume knob.</div><div><br /></div><div>I carved out a slot in the right grip with a soldering iron (it is a sin, I know) for the jack (ebay 5-pin) and a small wheel potentiometer (Radio Shack 271-001). This 5-pin jacks automatically switch from speaker to headphone when you plug it in.</div><div><br /></div><div>This is a crude wiring diagram. It is sad how long it took me to figure it out.</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN8o6_onu1Hrdxwtp96hxjgsrcWQNe_vJ_3iPstsyBlJh8FTTxsDloJnL6ZLCiXy7k4DzmmFvGR8rIMfFNZ1FQKushaiexwl3tUgauBToQXKTY_1oz7n7wk-_owSuR9TiL_iZ6NsWOqJg/s400/diagram.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5619330383750135218" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 305px; " /></span></div><div>This is a shot of the holes and where the stuff fits in the remote.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgotO8blqVnSP85EtMo8b08TG2aUdYZ2pB29sBFuSEA2oqccmebhf_G558iCGaMc9A09M3GEvUmeNaJkmSyBpasBlsnfZIl4EDHmHxuE9dMZpqM1Un6Q0A4jdxER-glRtM8kcxuCuIaq34/s400/holes.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5619331421776285202" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" ><br /></span></div><div>The components assembled and awaiting final gluing.</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_fuZxr6w9FWQFmyuhyeS1CXbiUHYNihxcjQEEToyrDt5TJJ9K6u5DpC4eN5EHXSxl5Msl_oLuaNhM7QbjzRo1GwFimV0eo5MIx7hle0Zdu-N9b7sPA3ZIgA39f0lEyG3CjCMMsS8fiKk/s400/MicParts.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5619330659273173794" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><div>The final installed setup.</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsHMhf_Q1cblpcwMqKSxGvHxD6unY6D_sG5TCPE96rAnQtstGEgWnMEL9NqbLoKW0Pd-kwjU8vYUSZXJLX9Q1OLOT0n9YmfdkExhb9ubp_mQGnINu-gcRcahKw62C9uWvJid5SBjMUSoI/s400/MicFront.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5619330891102620546" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px; " /></span></div><div>The speaker shuts off when the headphones are installed.</div><div>Speaker: the wheel controls the speaker from NORMAL to mute. Not a lot of fine control.</div><div>Headphones: the wheel controls the headphones from REALLY LOUD to NORMAL.</div><div><br /></div><div>Overall, I am happy with the results.</div>Disobedient Tigerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06944114842337202900noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1877404255239966498.post-56339681113522258372011-06-17T15:41:00.000-07:002011-06-17T15:49:07.073-07:00Spy Trakr: Motors<div>There are many complaints about the Spy Trakr motor; all of them say it's too weak.<div><br /></div><div>I opened it up to see what we were dealing with.</div></div><div><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ3KCME5lSGXun0XRghkfKLqjDeklXmEK2OAyFoZcPrtOWdi2vmxb6BXMj-3AtTI6pPZwyfK5TDoxJEdRlI5i411IxNlAlIXd7wwONFd4SmRTqPm0ipdVgY7KWKSie1Q23hxeSxF2YKx4/s1600/motor+side.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ3KCME5lSGXun0XRghkfKLqjDeklXmEK2OAyFoZcPrtOWdi2vmxb6BXMj-3AtTI6pPZwyfK5TDoxJEdRlI5i411IxNlAlIXd7wwONFd4SmRTqPm0ipdVgY7KWKSie1Q23hxeSxF2YKx4/s400/motor+side.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5619323034325549298" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsnHXhorAHq1qXc3vzCMLrXxK_bLYpF3KGfFs0gqfXFtQdGI_cSCXDuWYuUNpQvachwNFA6PLx6j2QY0FkLIEeXCRys9zkj4FuYWxsuOTqvgtFDnVbQosLfFNSUkgPTTzd6CAK1alVcbQ/s1600/motor+top.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsnHXhorAHq1qXc3vzCMLrXxK_bLYpF3KGfFs0gqfXFtQdGI_cSCXDuWYuUNpQvachwNFA6PLx6j2QY0FkLIEeXCRys9zkj4FuYWxsuOTqvgtFDnVbQosLfFNSUkgPTTzd6CAK1alVcbQ/s400/motor+top.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5619322965165259314" /></a>Four gears in the train from the motor to the wheel<div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>10:28</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>10:38</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>10:38</div><div>overall<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span> 1:40.4</div><div><br /></div><div>Should be beefy enough, but the motor spins so slowly; the wheel does about 100 RPM.</div><div><br /></div><div>Three wires to the motor: black, red, orange (the other wheel is green, blue, yellow)<br /><div>This is a simple brushed DC motor. Orange/black power the motor and red is a ground to motor chassis.</div></div><div><br /></div><div>The motor itself is a little larger than the typical guys I see at the hobby shop. </div><div>I will revisit this later to get a better idea of the motor, and how to improve the situation.</div>Disobedient Tigerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06944114842337202900noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1877404255239966498.post-19193752600780715402011-06-17T15:16:00.000-07:002011-06-17T15:41:34.258-07:00Spy Trakr: Wide Angle Lens (more)<div style="text-align: left;">A little bit more about the lenses and installation.</div><div>This is the 1.8mm lens installed on the board.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikNJOjHOuzPXDlnCutwz-eV9OK_XamYbg1qNdk37LynWfsmhZKqrDJ78JH7DKNxfoIV9wkMFvMCQbDZeIU8AsRLiLsUEcSf6uNdUt9pJkWLo7B9csX-xrq_ET0EsRmR36FagJ8pMceWC0/s400/BoardCMOS.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5619320223321917570" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 266px; " /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div>I had to make a custom lens holder and I made it a little loose. The lens would shift when I installed it in the TRAKR. So I manually focused it and dribbled Elmers glue into the threads overnight. Now it is sturdy enough to install in the 'bot.</div><div><br /></div><div>These are 3 of the 4lenses I used (excluding the one I installed).</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidW0xzJ52k5bg_ESMELQVStrblVElsI9fF6kCfH7iJRFwz9Ahy3OkQ8lWzqG7_LRhB3WXJH9k2k_Do0NxOycAgXhRw5KWf0VYjPujtw_js3CaFPnsDFHLPkFq_iNr0_O8H5q_vRuhlKog/s400/CMOStop.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5619320518144862002" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 190px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilPf_xeCZkMQIAdxgj4za-EVV2oeRjOV_RbvW1uHsfomIiijVZZy5kGHhvJcl5c3M4pZDhl1IR69My7ZrZLTZl-UROnG17u3O4-ix36E_s7S1cKgEDP2x1JE1_tmY5QQSPmjpIrGwFU00/s400/CMOSside.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5619320869851162114" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 197px; " /></span></div><div>The TRAKR lens is on the right. It has a 9mmx0.5 thread on the lens. This diameter is less common, but not too bad. The screw holes on the lens mount (and the TRAKR CMOS) are 18mm apart. This lens has an IR filter built in. This lets 850nm pass and blocks the other IR frequencies.</div><div><br /></div><div>The other two lens are from the Surveyor SRV-1 (basic on left, wide angle in the middle). These are both 12mmx0.5 thread lenses. Much more common size. The included lens mount is on the center lens. The screw holes on the lens mount are 22mm too big for the TRAKR.</div><div><br /></div><div>So I built my own lens holder: 12mmx0.5 thread with a narrow 18mm base. Not hard, but I was sloppy (thus the glue)</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div>Disobedient Tigerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06944114842337202900noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1877404255239966498.post-13082322264487586632011-06-10T16:22:00.001-07:002011-06-10T16:40:36.479-07:00Spy Trakr: Wide Angle Lens<div style="text-align: left;">I recently purchased a Spy Gear Spy Trakr. $80 R/C Tank with video camera that displays on the remote. It's claim to fame is that it runs Linux and is user programmable. Hackaday.com did a few good write-ups on it <span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(14, 119, 74); font-family: arial, sans-serif; line-height: 15px; font-size: small; "><b>//hackaday</b>.com/2010/08/27/<b>spy</b>-video-<b>trakr</b>-first-impressions/</span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix0yQrkijusI6Tb2A27V5t9srqRJnNR-7LLWFoGjuqwVkd52EOQ91-_vXFctVMJT6O0PC6t4K7YrgcvKbPCPxKg-N4RLe4l9IRX7CYlWZqVZI7cOQka_0u01L7FcDUcT41pO8uUmY2sY0/s400/dc09_spy_video_trakr.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5616739740315102866" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 339px; " /></span></div><div>Unfortunately, Spy Gear has stopped supporting it and taking the source code with it. Darn.</div><div><div><br /></div><div>In the meantime, it is still a fun little toy. I drove it around the apartment, tough to navigate on the small screen. Just for giggles, I thought I would swap out the lens with a wide angle lens. I had 3 other lenses from work: 3.6mm, 2.2mm, and 1.8mm. (The Spy Trakr lens looks to be 3.6mm).</div><div>These lenses are 12mmx0.5 thread, very common; the Spy Trakr lens is 9mmx0.5 thread, less common.</div><div><br /></div><div>This is an image with the default lens</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9fJKmptnCWkD2x_RVOgJZhQ3RhQoI8Yz33ygmukKyN09hvev2bs4agmzH5NGxbG8juqYnP3k1wWKP5A52AE1qtAPPvitjoj_Fidck7DBMCSLrfGijpJt6mleBol9SViuI60TNz12dra0/s400/Default+Lens.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5616739294599672898" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" ><br /></span></div><div>This is an image with the 1.8mm lens</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKo7ory09HTyFgKDxh69pEocMdIccULQFVw9c0FmB887ZyAbYrGY4UEkEo4xE_6HEBUqfqe2YvgWBo5FGXsje1gq7Wl0OWKZ95w5IlW3LaeGFOBPxbIAh2QBsZ4GfS5xlhJazsBpdAjIo/s400/1.8mm+Lens.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5616739082758706402" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><div>A top view of the kitchen, er... test arena.</div><div>The green line is 1.8mm and red is the 3.6mm.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHKRVNy8hK4QdzYJtO9XSjBrkOy17ss37jA4ISNu7ynmPAoDNdd44K4-E1TwupUoiTIz1Z6GQgAgbj8I4jQjWXcjXB0oMj_Ujj9cMICaRBsnlUS8Uwlxe9GbIwLQnxry5R6NdanKrpbfI/s400/Top+View.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5616738831462566546" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 250px; " /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" ><br /></span></div><div>The wider view and increased "peripheral vision" make the Spy Trakr an order of magnitude easier to drive. </div><div><br /></div><div>A couple of notes about the 1.8 mm lens. It was labeled as 180-degree field of view. Clearly not 180 degrees. The fine print is that on a 1/3" imager it yields a full 180-degrees, but on the Spy Trakr 1/4" imager, we get 90-degrees. Again, still better than the 45-degree Spy Trakr lens.</div><div><br /></div><div>A problem though, the wider lens needs A LOT more light. Thus my images are bad outside of natural sunlight. D'oh. External LEDs will fix that.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div></div>Disobedient Tigerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06944114842337202900noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1877404255239966498.post-14389763570716804542010-09-19T07:26:00.000-07:002010-09-19T07:47:13.231-07:0068HC11 Bootstrap mode<div>In 1999, I received a Super T-Comp; a 68HC11 based microcontroller board that is similar to the Handyboard.</div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCMqQx5gwY536KIVEmqPtFELJWv-dtNxqqYSIgJw629r62A_yDNXS8VsLKVnqpY6H_DPeewnJK-HTGsAGJ84x7HBA2VlozLF1L8EDkSZFnMTgeMIanXgqb9MarU3i5D2O2OKvF53BHGMc/s1600/tcomp1.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 316px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCMqQx5gwY536KIVEmqPtFELJWv-dtNxqqYSIgJw629r62A_yDNXS8VsLKVnqpY6H_DPeewnJK-HTGsAGJ84x7HBA2VlozLF1L8EDkSZFnMTgeMIanXgqb9MarU3i5D2O2OKvF53BHGMc/s400/tcomp1.gif" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5518635364556208098" /></a><div>While working with it I released the sacred smoke. I blew out 3 chips.</div><div>I repaired the damage, but I couldn't get it to work right again. So it sat in my toybox waiting for me to try again.</div><div><br /></div><div>In 2010, I am taking a class in embedded systems; so it is time to try again. </div><div><br /></div><div>Inspecting the board again, I found a bad chip that I missed; a NAND gate driving the external RAM. I will fix that this week.</div><div><br /></div><div>Regardless I should be able to talk to T-Comp in Bootstrap mode. PCBug11 is the original tool for talking to 68HC11. It doesn't run on modern (fast) computers. </div><div><br /></div><div>So I tried TeraTerm terminal software. Finally did established communication this morning.</div><div><br /></div><div>68HC11 has 4 modes:</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Single Chip: no external RAM</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Expanded: external RAM</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Bootstrap: single chip, using bootstrap loader in ROM</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Test: Uh? don't know</div><div><br /></div><div>Bootstrap Mode</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Hold ModA and ModB low</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Toggle Reset </div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Release ModA and ModB</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>within a second </div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>send a byte over SCI (serial port) at 1200 Baud, No parity, 8 bits, 1 stop bit.</div><div><br /></div><div>It is now ready to accept a 256 byte program. 68HC11 will echo bytes. Once it recieves 256 bytes, the program counter resets to $0000 and starts to run the loaded program. In theory.</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre;"><br /></span></div>Disobedient Tigerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06944114842337202900noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1877404255239966498.post-50206075772033038082010-09-18T13:46:00.000-07:002010-09-18T14:05:53.318-07:00Hacking the PSPEveryone has hacked the PSP to put non-Sony firmware on.<div>You can still run your games, AND install homebrew stuff.</div><div><br /></div><div>This was the original goal when I bought my PSP. I got distracted by actually playing games.</div><div>I finally got around to doing it.</div><div><br /></div><div>I have the GOW edition PSP slim, it had Sony firmware V3.94 installed.</div><div><br /></div><div>I sort of followed the instructions that I found here</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span><a href="http://forums.pspslimhacks.com/tutorials/5-guide-psp-custom-firmware-reference-guide-minor-update.html">http://forums.pspslimhacks.com/tutorials/5-guide-psp-custom-firmware-reference-guide-minor-update.html</a></div><div><br /></div><div>Things you need:</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Pandora Battery - modified battery to allow access to the PSP bootstrap mode, </div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>I borrowed one</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Sony memory stick - 1Gb stick works fine</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>PSP Grader v0.008 - installs firmware, I got it here</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span><a href="http://pspslimhacks.com/psp-grader-v008/">http://pspslimhacks.com/psp-grader-v008/</a></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>modified PSP firmware - overwrites the Sony firmware, I got it here</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span><a href="http://www.psp-hacks.com/file/1568">http://www.psp-hacks.com/file/1568</a></div><div><br /></div><div>Connect the PSP to your PC; start USB mode.</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Copy the Sony memory stick to PC</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Format the Sony memory stick</div><div><br /></div><div>Start PSP Grader</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Locate the eboot.pbp in the PSP_500_FW.zip</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Download file to stick</div><div><br /></div><div>Disconnect and power off the PSP</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Remove battery</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Insert memory stick (if you haven't)</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Hold down the L button</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Insert the Pandora Battery (often PSP auto-starts) and start PSP</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Back up NAND</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre">R</span>estart PSP</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Install 5.00 M33 (or similar)</div><div><br /></div><div>Done.</div><div>I have spent all my time playing a Magic the Gathering Homebrew (Wagic) in stead of programming anything.</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span></div>Disobedient Tigerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06944114842337202900noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1877404255239966498.post-79148467058439046592010-06-02T17:27:00.001-07:002010-06-04T14:16:15.994-07:00Shelves Part V - Vini Vidi Vici!<div style="text-align: left;">Actually, I finished the shelves by the end of the last post, but the completed shelves deserve a private showing.</div><div><br /></div><div>TaDa!</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwzkcjNWb0fM61o9Qr_BA-j5YEY9AD6Uzr_nX27c4eyElzp-tBAFQoqhsiL95Eyy_4XD1j1cFp1Or7xHGY0_Rxiuiz3CNWhmbr2vfrHBw3bx_Px6voMPNc68CaXaVTVzo6KEjwQ6-FkAQ/s400/installed.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5478338088872030050" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#FF0000;">Amazing! Beautiful!</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;">And with stuff...</div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL3G_IZzuzp75UTrMWElnGcHULukwMitt_CbcfYxPnpf1Bkt5yiaI_4RC3FSyARmeUvJl6UZAEAenAGcq5ngWYOYCrBl3bnfs0lcCiOb2Cy3a_XtX3Oi43A9na81MWw_LvpjpU3GSUIHc/s400/full.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5478340636830878818" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 256px; height: 400px; " /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; ">less beautiful, but nothing is overflowing.</span></div>Disobedient Tigerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06944114842337202900noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1877404255239966498.post-37707268779426116422010-06-02T17:02:00.000-07:002010-06-02T17:57:19.865-07:00Shelves Part IIII - Install!<div style="text-align: left;">Problem with the shelves is that they won't fit in the pantry with the shelves intact. As designed, the shelves are attached to the back board from the rear. Thus I can't screw the individual shelves back in place given the tiny space behind the back boards in the pantry.</div><div><br /></div><div>Instead I decided to add supports to the back boards, under the shelves. The supports will be screwed in from the rear. Then after the unit is installed I can add the individual shelves from the front.</div><div><br /></div><div>Out of concern that the full shelves were too heavy to attach solely to the wall, I added support legs.</div><div><br /></div><div>Sunday morning I ran out to my local hardware store.<div>I picked up 12 feet of 1" x 2" board. </div></div><div>I cut out 12 boards, rounded the edges and stained them.</div><div>Then I went on vacation.</div><div><br /></div><div>First the legs:</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggQNRDszkIe3bIMpy8qO9o6USBIhs6eU5nsiSF8xgoulEU4XEttYOugOroEXGRmazhO3j0EzZvQAaywgsOipus08G4CbJN9VKqZbyxEr_a-YUXMq3QBOze5uE8rXIkfgzTmRQTxz4oK6A/s400/legs.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5478337280014529698" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></span></div><div><br /></div><div>Then mount the back boards to the wall and the legs:</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgncUFjwPfgK6G-bsCc3CM8mZo31bLQDreKRF_OwFi6zTn6FhDcRuLiaAC_GioL2oDrJ5XP8y2Tmawx4afzRW4SDTUYDA5HbONxz5vIke24Cfs6kiINOwNKVK0tNvYq3Yep1eoyNallqwc/s400/backboards.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5478337050451258322" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><br /></span></div><div>Then add each shelf, screwing the supports from the bottom:</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOTJh19zAeJDNwDfj7rp6uTZDNnHQbaJgB_QHuMzQppN8ShUV_eAeFZ8E7noypLuee_nVTv4p3vI5J2pkIsHwHD03IDOZUNQyd_mVUKtb-x89Hovpqc4NINHaZ4Ay-VvvlIIZYceGLZ-g/s400/supports.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5478336822901460578" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></span></div>Disobedient Tigerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06944114842337202900noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1877404255239966498.post-64342394324541298782010-05-29T19:06:00.000-07:002010-05-29T20:39:30.663-07:00Shelves Part III - Aw Crud<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-7MLDR5GX7VuDl1yA4TmBGUUUMAd3yMPwQk5YL93X5nw3-dWZRTqVvMzBsifkElqR1bBMwpY7m2eFF5Jrv93PSvvWlzwrf9plhNgsMB_6IJct_sjL4TgE4Qn_jH6vxkOg6gdznMHqkko/s1600/Doh.jpg"></a><div style="text-align: left;">Time to install.</div><div><br /></div><div>I emptied the pantry and started removing shelves.</div><div><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAOx00EB6_x8wnHejxtzUdLO1UZILh7Ub0IVzQyIuyFaVLoi_f83KzIW6RGAbiVQB5AJQo8CCtQeMFD6_wcBTU7UQHswVf3qYoEdoOnWZkI2yY-q83YmlOBhxqHYM_eKag7paO1l7rl7c/s400/Removal.JPG" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5476880656340385906" /></div><div>The contents are scattered about the kitchen.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqu292PSII1o9O7pGIrFRHkwDDqDQcvN5uUS3_tDRh9s2-J2mdgiYmcXsxFWmd8w3ppLt-B_PxzBJFW2AM1mf6-US8fnQwjGuje5d9MTcLJ5_OnWnoGPIf1i5oM8glZxaI0GISF6GZOlQ/s400/Kitchen.JPG" /></div><div style="text-align: left;">So I started the installation process. </div><div style="text-align: left;">I ran into a small problem. It won't fit in the door. </div><div style="text-align: left;">Initially, I planned to install the backboards, then the shelves.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Installation would have been easy as pie.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">But somewhere along the line, I changed my mind, and assembled it first.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Oops. I can't get it inside the closet. No matter how much twisting, shaking, lifting, grunting I do, one corner sticks out. Oh Crud.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-7MLDR5GX7VuDl1yA4TmBGUUUMAd3yMPwQk5YL93X5nw3-dWZRTqVvMzBsifkElqR1bBMwpY7m2eFF5Jrv93PSvvWlzwrf9plhNgsMB_6IJct_sjL4TgE4Qn_jH6vxkOg6gdznMHqkko/s1600/Doh.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-7MLDR5GX7VuDl1yA4TmBGUUUMAd3yMPwQk5YL93X5nw3-dWZRTqVvMzBsifkElqR1bBMwpY7m2eFF5Jrv93PSvvWlzwrf9plhNgsMB_6IJct_sjL4TgE4Qn_jH6vxkOg6gdznMHqkko/s400/Doh.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5476883892266569586" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 400px; " /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">I have a plan to fix it. I can install supports under the shelves. Wish me luck.</div>Disobedient Tigerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06944114842337202900noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1877404255239966498.post-68323359249972606982010-05-17T16:36:00.000-07:002010-05-28T16:56:04.062-07:00Shelves Part II - Stained<div><div><div>I hesitated about staining the shelves. Somebody pointed out, "it's in a closet, go for it".</div><div>I chose a dark red (Minwax Red Oak 215).</div><div>I worried about the stain on the edges of the plywood.</div></div><div><br /></div>There were a few spots where the dado cuts chipped the plywood, so I looked into wood filler.<div>I tried the Minwax Stainable Wood Filler. It looks/feels like beach sand. Odd.</div><div>Seemed to blend okay.</div><div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre; "> </span></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre; ">T</span>est everything on scrap first!</div><div>The stain was much darker than I expected (brown, not red)</div><div>It did not look good on the edges of the plywood.</div><div>But it looked worse on the edges with the wood filler. (I think)</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre; ">W</span>ell, I used the wood filler on the deep gouges, but not on the edges.</div><div>I sanded everything with 220 grit sandpaper and an orbital sander. Fairly quick job.</div><div><br /></div><div>I applied 2 coats of 215 (2x 8oz cans, no left overs). 6 hours after each coat.</div><div>FYI the stainable wood filler doesn't stain. (the yellow stripe just above the shelves)</div></div></div><div><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinaqS_uL-RP7WSvuVtMcpdSLkniYMo6HmfAREi5AAVvMp5IOKvJkJdzeFTSJPTj3AglVWGRs2c1tyCqgw5F_wIS9lyhc4AfEEl6slQNaKQI9ifhJI2bWW8YjHJc-4zuA7x6HMYcDc-V_c/s1600/filler.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 242px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinaqS_uL-RP7WSvuVtMcpdSLkniYMo6HmfAREi5AAVvMp5IOKvJkJdzeFTSJPTj3AglVWGRs2c1tyCqgw5F_wIS9lyhc4AfEEl6slQNaKQI9ifhJI2bWW8YjHJc-4zuA7x6HMYcDc-V_c/s400/filler.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5476473700946878770" /></a><div><div><div>Applied a coat of Minwax Fast Drying Polyurethane (32 oz can, used less than a 1/4) to all of the stained surfaces.</div><div><br /></div><div>After 6 hours, I felt the surface. Very rough.</div><div>So I lightly sanded (220 grit) the top of the shelves.</div><div>Applied another coat (again just to the top of the shelves)</div><div>24 hour cure. Very nice!</div></div></div><div><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjspcsSsaXBhvUf4gpOktigVXiKLvuA-5_PH2wsEzWNacTyn4NDvvEUbvxn7DG8w_sQEwVGMlVcQLVpMyAGgKwbuTG1m82PluJAarEmENkoqbtHeBHOLLogUR1v3c0R9r9Iz76Zvu8UgcY/s1600/shelves.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjspcsSsaXBhvUf4gpOktigVXiKLvuA-5_PH2wsEzWNacTyn4NDvvEUbvxn7DG8w_sQEwVGMlVcQLVpMyAGgKwbuTG1m82PluJAarEmENkoqbtHeBHOLLogUR1v3c0R9r9Iz76Zvu8UgcY/s400/shelves.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5476472180739924626" /></a><div><div><div>Most important thing I learned: I need more light.</div><div>I found a few spots where I missed stain or clear coat.</div><div><br /></div><div>Next I need to figure out how to mount it.</div><div><br /></div></div></div><div>One last thing. Remember to clean the stickers off with rubbing alcohol first.</div><div><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiXen5X74XhNGTN-K9kZB4etPEZdDlve7uYXC46KNOs85b2b-lr6ZYjWcAjdxCjv1RSmipKMqu1_4uvw7_-qQbgkls3pSe_U6UU8ja3QOFtsFwFhaHW1mGDMF7bHl39n9IQ-63wOs7GVY/s1600/sticker.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiXen5X74XhNGTN-K9kZB4etPEZdDlve7uYXC46KNOs85b2b-lr6ZYjWcAjdxCjv1RSmipKMqu1_4uvw7_-qQbgkls3pSe_U6UU8ja3QOFtsFwFhaHW1mGDMF7bHl39n9IQ-63wOs7GVY/s400/sticker.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5476471466109654434" /></a><div><br /></div>Disobedient Tigerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06944114842337202900noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1877404255239966498.post-33076477023846467312010-05-16T06:55:00.001-07:002010-05-16T07:42:38.784-07:00Woodworking Project<div>I took a woodworking class at the community college. But what to do for a project?<div><br /></div><div>Someone pointed out the hell that is the pantry.</div></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQWZgG7p8LP6zNn6FruMGLquhL-3h3WJc3Makl5U6GG0tbViOW1jgadwLAACLM9zyL4y39aItdfl5VZeHovMyPqR-Pf0FuIZIaOIKh_9BGkscZXbccQvStdogEX0oNcK-UGr_gRBhqCxU/s1600/pantry.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQWZgG7p8LP6zNn6FruMGLquhL-3h3WJc3Makl5U6GG0tbViOW1jgadwLAACLM9zyL4y39aItdfl5VZeHovMyPqR-Pf0FuIZIaOIKh_9BGkscZXbccQvStdogEX0oNcK-UGr_gRBhqCxU/s400/pantry.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5471878150716677954" /></a><div><div>I have a project now.</div><div><br /></div><div>The pantry is in a tight corner. The current shelving is 8"x2' wire mesh. It uses less than 1/3 of the space in the pantry.</div><div><br /></div><div>My proposed shelves are basically 2'x2' triangles (with additional 4" of overhang). This should provide a lot more space.</div><div><br /></div><div>I should have documented the individual pieces before assembling them. Oops.</div></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlNG2Ji9SKOKjvgQYIPtrpkmQ04OHEyftQi8fjsnDb8MoS2IxZgvL_QbVin4cb7ElqHLceQeUljuHw_iqYjUk9fIOYCOkWEzdOsP5fCJPfcec8ZuhceYmv71sJ4LVwYAp4fh2-yspNVpM/s1600/shelves.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlNG2Ji9SKOKjvgQYIPtrpkmQ04OHEyftQi8fjsnDb8MoS2IxZgvL_QbVin4cb7ElqHLceQeUljuHw_iqYjUk9fIOYCOkWEzdOsP5fCJPfcec8ZuhceYmv71sJ4LVwYAp4fh2-yspNVpM/s400/shelves.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5471877673987969954" /></a><div><div>Stats:</div><div><ul><li>3/4" plywood backing (1/4" deep dado cuts for the shelves)</li><li>four 1/2" plywood shelves</li><li>two 3/4" plywood shelves ( from the leftover from the backing)</li><li>11.5" between the shelves</li><li>top shelf is cut much deeper (not triangular) so I can reach stuff on the top.</li></ul></div><div>After assembling the shelves, I decided to round the edges (better late than never) .</div><div>I bought a router and bits (cool toy!).</div><div><div>I used a 3/8" round-over. The bit is recessed to 1/8" cutting surface.</div><div>I like the final look.</div></div></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm2F_kNZSIV921vnVLVeJVOKuKT-q-xlQ34HjqvMx_PxclICH6uDqJjhb5YFilRgyJOdREJ00tc-xbLhwis99I7ZWpXmvtAdg1YueWj6PWI_aMz78yo5OwL5rP489QcVuNoXgNYJH4NZ0/s1600/edge.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm2F_kNZSIV921vnVLVeJVOKuKT-q-xlQ34HjqvMx_PxclICH6uDqJjhb5YFilRgyJOdREJ00tc-xbLhwis99I7ZWpXmvtAdg1YueWj6PWI_aMz78yo5OwL5rP489QcVuNoXgNYJH4NZ0/s400/edge.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5471875972289946418" /></a><div>The next step is stain and protect.</div><div><br /></div>Disobedient Tigerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06944114842337202900noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1877404255239966498.post-9595938462947107972010-01-07T17:57:00.000-08:002010-01-08T17:55:26.555-08:00Motor Lockout and Timer<div style="text-align: left;">I need a remote box to control the RPM of a 20 HP rotor.</div><div>Since, the AC Drive provides 90% of the work, the remote box is a pretty easy task. </div><div><br /></div><div>It has 4 parts:</div><div>10-turn rotary potentiometer - vary rotor speed from 0-12000RPM,</div><div>Kill switch - big red button that cuts power to the motor if something goes wrong</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: normal; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:x-large;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#FF0000;"><b> Something ALWAYS goes wrong</b></span></span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre; "></span></div><div>Enable switch - small button that lets command from the <span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: normal; ">AC Drive go to the motor</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre; "></span></div><div>Lock out - timer that makes sure the command from the<span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre; "> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: normal; ">AC Drive is zero before letting you use the Enable switch</span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>The diagram is shown below:</div><div><br /></div> <div style="text-align: center;text-decoration: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipuW2e4whLIfmPKf2etEfaX2aaVRIUFPEUEAi6L0aMRKyihfVAjPX1dL21TM_IbFuwQTudMeuD8tgSnEhJ0P6hDyWuhx9q7I3X4KQI57ApDEtFjihPORO5hNDBfHk6_JfcDlkiVhetqwc/s400/circuit+diagram.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 338px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5424552575699307554" /></div> <div><div style="text-align: left;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:large;">The red lines S1, Sc: </span></b></div><div style="text-align: left;">If S1 is connected to Sc, then the Drive commands reach the motor.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: normal; ">Ultimately, the circuit will connect S1 to Sc if Enable switch is hit.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre; "></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:large;">Av, A1, Ac:</span></b></div><div style="text-align: left;">10-turn pot to control RPM.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: normal; ">This is a basic voltage divider; the Drive senses the reference voltage (Av) compared to A1.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:large;">Enable Switch and Panic Button:</span></b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre; ">T</span>he yellow block is a 3PDT 5V relay.</div><div style="text-align: left;">When the coil is energized by pressing the Enable button:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: normal; ">Pole 1 connects the main coil to 5V. Thus the coil stays energized after the Enable button is released.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;">Pole 2 connects S1 to Sc.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Pole 3 energizes the Green LED.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">When the Panic button (normally closed) is pressed,<span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre; "> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: normal; ">it breaks the circuit and opens the coil.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre; "></span></div><div style="text-align: left;">Once the circuit is enabled, the Panic button is the only way to kill it.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The key is that NOTHING happens if the lockout transistor (NPN) is not energized by the output of the <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Safety Lockout. This transistor acts as a normally-open switch.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre; "></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:large;">Safety Lockout:</span></b></div><div style="text-align: left;">This is borrowed in whole from <span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;">www.doctronics.com</span>, "retriggerable monostable timer"</div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;">The input signal is an RPM pulse train (0-10V), th<span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: normal; ">is goes through a voltage divider (0-5V), <span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: normal; ">and an inverter (the monostable likes HI inputs).</span></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:large;">The 555 timer is used to create a monostable timer.</span></i></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: normal; ">The output (pin 3, green line) goes HI when the input (pin 2) has a falling edge.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre; "></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: normal; ">Output is HI for 15 seconds (1.1*900K Ohms*15microF).</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre; "></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: normal; ">Red LED turns on to indicate Output is HI.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre; "></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;">Basically, if there is a pulse train coming in, then the output goes HI for 15 seconds and stops you from enabling the relay. ( If it is already enabled, <span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: normal; ">then there is no effect.)</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre; "></span></div><div style="text-align: left;">The problem is that the 15 seconds starts from the first falling edge; <span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: normal; ">additional pulses don't<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>reset the timer.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre; "></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:large;">Enter the "retrigger transistor"</span></i></div><div style="text-align: left;">Every time the input is LO (PNP) the capacitor is discharged and must slowly recharge.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: pre; "><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: normal; ">This resets the 15-second timer after each pulse.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><i>The actual circuit wired up on the bread board is shown below.</i></div><div style="text-align: left;">The rightmost button would be replaced by the RPM pulse train.</div><div style="text-align: left;">The center button would be replaced by a "normally closed switch"</div><div style="text-align: left;">And the left LED should be GREEN.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6DGN1Q4fiSqmwbvvvUGj4gu_KuwoLmqFWQOVcEw-SBR1AUDeNPLVZA0f92-NxmVZExKJJv3BLXHWIudx4MaNP1qvlSWIy2qAvTVAwAFgITWO9nBJxwhKxnCdj_fQ-vcMNYA7jy6xuRd0/s1600-h/actual+breadboard.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6DGN1Q4fiSqmwbvvvUGj4gu_KuwoLmqFWQOVcEw-SBR1AUDeNPLVZA0f92-NxmVZExKJJv3BLXHWIudx4MaNP1qvlSWIy2qAvTVAwAFgITWO9nBJxwhKxnCdj_fQ-vcMNYA7jy6xuRd0/s400/actual+breadboard.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5424182470564398034" /></a><br /></div>Disobedient Tigerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06944114842337202900noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1877404255239966498.post-2188843231580629842010-01-05T17:42:00.001-08:002010-01-05T18:23:59.018-08:00Bipolar Stepper Motor circuit<div><div style="text-align: left; ">So about 5 years ago, a coworker was going to teach me electronics.</div><div>Starting with something simple: stepper motor controller.</div><div><br /></div><div>List in hand, I bought diodes, resistors, and power MOSFETs. I scavenged a stepper from an old printer. And left in all in a drawer for 5 years.</div><div><br /></div><div>Finally, I pulled it out of the drawer and started working on it.</div><div><br /></div><div>The stepper motor turned out to be Bipolar Stepper Motor with 4 wires: 2 independent coils.</div><div><br /></div><div>The drive circuit is basically an H-Bridge. This allows a low power/low voltage controller (like a PIC) to drive a high current/high voltage (1A @ 12-24V).</div><div><br /></div><div>Power MOFSET</div><div style="text-align: center; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0KUmBhElZ6joJEOOw_0vQkE4L7HVDXa0H9NbIKfZ2uu84cNyEbROCKj4bx1taw4dSmFPj-dTqYU9QMEhn0v6lUToGth_GOB8okuBoz_u_l8Zh1yXEda2iDq9iTNUpwBEYjTQ6kwG524k/s320/MOSFET.jpg" /></div><div style="text-align: left; "><br /></div><div style="text-align: left; ">So I had a lot of trouble figuring out that the Source pin goes to low voltage (source of electrons) and the Drain pin goes to high voltage (absorbs electrons). Basic electricity, but it still took me a while.</div><div><br /></div><div>Most of the circuits used transistors in lieu of MOSFETs or to control on/off ahead of MOSFETs. Eventually I found a simplified diagram using just MOSFETs.</div><div><br /></div><div>Basic diagram:</div><div style="text-align: center; "><img src="http://www.learn-c.com/basicmosfethbridge.gif" /></div><div style="text-align: center; "><br /></div><div>Layout for breadboard:</div></div><div><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO9nkjQzY_6_InYJf9rIJJPTPgcIa9xEgHbmPRI-BDqtoNlkVQNINukfTQUIwHtcQU4ypUo-4DPS93E6NaWsovx7DFLwbDJbq3rKP8p0tXsCeQJ0BDndj4GlZwmuqTLt-ste89rQGWweE/s1600-h/circuit.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 177px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO9nkjQzY_6_InYJf9rIJJPTPgcIa9xEgHbmPRI-BDqtoNlkVQNINukfTQUIwHtcQU4ypUo-4DPS93E6NaWsovx7DFLwbDJbq3rKP8p0tXsCeQJ0BDndj4GlZwmuqTLt-ste89rQGWweE/s400/circuit.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5423444937623218514" /></a><div><div><br /></div><div>My actual breadboard:</div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#0000EE;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=""><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#000000;"><br /></span></span></span></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyyZ4Ldyv3dF5j5nIavw0FxJp8ZvDLYbIgEUKi__RPeFlfRW6xWznZeKd2sUZjPYb2-fr2pzPjJBJ99p1LcbbP4gAv6KIrVStV9-XO0mdSpEJr0HQJeOpAr2CFKal0WrFjThf12YM2XnI/s1600-h/actualcircuit.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyyZ4Ldyv3dF5j5nIavw0FxJp8ZvDLYbIgEUKi__RPeFlfRW6xWznZeKd2sUZjPYb2-fr2pzPjJBJ99p1LcbbP4gAv6KIrVStV9-XO0mdSpEJr0HQJeOpAr2CFKal0WrFjThf12YM2XnI/s400/actualcircuit.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5423444040991060562" /></a><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#FFFFFF;">Of course all of this already exists in a simple IC, L293D Dual H-Bridge. Although, I suppose my set up can handle more current, the 16 pin IC is very clean.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><img src="http://kartikmohta.com/tech/hbridge/l293.gif" /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>Disobedient Tigerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06944114842337202900noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1877404255239966498.post-57598160169025095082009-07-31T16:55:00.000-07:002009-07-31T06:50:05.683-07:00Trouble producing the HEX file, reduxI busted out the system after a few week (okay, a month) of letting it collect dust.<div><br /></div><div>I tried writing and compiling a simple modification to the last code...</div><div>and no luck?</div><div><br /></div><div>I thought I fixed this!?</div><div><br /></div><div>After much digging around (and some unpleasant grumbling) I found out that the Hi Tech PIC compiler was installed in "evaluation mode" and that license expired. </div><div><br /></div><div>I reinstalled and things worked okay. But I am sure it reinstalled in "evaluation mode" again.</div><div>Ug</div>Disobedient Tigerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06944114842337202900noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1877404255239966498.post-63330187442107293342009-07-26T16:29:00.000-07:002009-07-26T16:55:08.158-07:00Baby blanketsWe have a tradition:<br /><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>whenever someone is about to have a baby,</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>my wife makes a baby blanket.</div><br />She has made 10 or so for various friends.<br /><br />Well my brother and sister-in-law are about to having a bouncing baby "?" of their own. My wife thought that I should make it myself. Since I have not sewn anything in about 20 years, I was reluctant.<br /><br />After 3 hours, a lot of coaching, and little help, I proudly present, my first baby blanket:<div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitcbf86aDwY5N9NjE5s2L7rqfVYQz0tZFrwM6IzBtDBN3YxQD4sgbtKqPdSqBTDubPNrsh2ew2IPvrgF8-Hp_YDHJIac4_qgpMyV3KUpiA8StwupqRe7S8gpfnZBTPSLDvdu0z3vmdFE4/s320/blanket.jpg" style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 258px; height: 320px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5362916792663947058" /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">My brother and SIL have decorated the nursery with a safari theme; therefore, we chose a cotton print to match. We went with a soft yellow flannel backing.<br /><br />Now I just have to pack and mail it before the kid goes off to college. (Procrastination runs in my family)</div></div>Disobedient Tigerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06944114842337202900noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1877404255239966498.post-76342484744168445272009-06-03T17:54:00.000-07:002009-06-04T15:08:03.114-07:00Trouble producing the HEX file<div>I wanted to compile and load a <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">.hex</span> file onto the PIC.</div><div><br /></div><div>Powered up MPLAB IDE, modified the example source code:</div><div> blink LED 1 instead of LED 0.</div><div><br /></div><div>I finally got the compiler to work (I was having many issues, including the Virtual Store).</div><div><br /></div><div>So, let's compile and load the <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">.hex</span> file... </div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;"> Build Succeded!</span></div><div>but a message box pops up saying it couldn't load the <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">.hex</span> file.</div><div><br /></div><div>Odd, but I can just do it manually.</div><div>wait, there is no <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">.hex</span> file!</div><div><br /></div><div>I poured through the compiler options. There was an option called <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">FAKELOCAL</span>...</div><div>Gee, that is suspicous, let's look there.</div><div><br /></div><div>Sure enough, if I go to the <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">HI-TECH Linker</span> in <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Project->Build Options</span> of the MPLAB IDE, there is a checkbox for <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Produce MPLAB debugging info</span>. Uncheck that and the <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">FAKELOCAL </span>goes away.</div><div><br /></div><div>Viola, on the next compile, a <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">.hex</span> file appears!</div>Disobedient Tigerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06944114842337202900noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1877404255239966498.post-71507658182218803482009-06-03T17:33:00.000-07:002009-06-04T14:58:56.177-07:00Vista Virtual StoreOkay,<div>I just found something out: Windows Vista is stubborn about letting you save files in </div><div> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">C:\Program Files\...</span></div><div>Instead, it recreates the data files and directory structure in <br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;"> C:\users\[USER]\app_data\local\virtual store\Program Files\...</span></div><div><div><br /></div><div>Yes, Vista recreates a copy of all the files that you use from <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic; ">Program Files</span> and hides it in some backwoods directory.</div><div><br /></div></div><div>Vista then merges the program files in <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">C:\Program Files\...</span> and the data files in<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;"> C:\...\Virtual Store\Program Files\...</span> when you run an application.</div><div>According to the file browser in the application, the data files should be in <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">C:\Program Files\...</span></div><div><br /></div><div>Vista goes through great effort to conceal the fact that the data and program are in separate locations.</div><div><br /></div><div>That's fine and dandy, but I couldn't find the <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">.hex </span>file that I just compiled (and neither could the loader)</div><div><br /></div><div>Partial solution:</div><div>I ran the application with <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Run as Administrator</span> and <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">Win XP SP2 Compatibility Mode</span>, and it appears to be working correctly now.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Well, that is 3 nights of my life I won't get back.</div>Disobedient Tigerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06944114842337202900noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1877404255239966498.post-74951460056494333792009-05-16T06:19:00.001-07:002009-05-17T07:52:08.921-07:00Bad PIC, bad!I have spent several nights trying to bring the PICKit Starter Kit back to life. <div>First, there are two install disks:</div><div> PICKit 1 Flash Starter Kit - </div><div> This includes the <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">.hex</span> loader and example projects<br /></div><div> MPLAB IDE - </div><div> This includes an IDE and the PIC C Lite compiler<br /></div><div>I only knew about the MPLAB IDE disk. Thus things weren't working right when I tried to program a chip. Finally found the other disk (buried in my closet) and reinstalled everything.</div><div><br /></div><div>I installed one of my <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">PIC12F675</span> (8-pin with 3 ADCs) chips in the Stater kit. Loaded a precompiled .hex onto the board. Ooh, look pretty lights. I was happy for the night.</div><div><br /></div><div>The next day, I picked up where I left off. I tried to compile and load one of the example programs. The loader said that the <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">write</span> was successful, and even read out the contents to verify correct saving. </div><div>But nothing happened. Ug. I tried over and over. But no luck!?<br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Wife told me to try again in the morning and play <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Mario Kart Wi</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">i</span></span> instead. Fine.</div><div><br /></div><div>This morning, I pulled out the other two PICs that I have, another <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">PIC12F675 </span>and<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;"> PIC16F630</span> (14-pin, same family). I tried the <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">load/verify</span> with them.</div><div><br /></div><div>TaDa! LEDs start blinking away. They both worked. I tried the misbehaving PIC again, still nothing. I guess I killed it that first night. Oh well.</div>Disobedient Tigerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06944114842337202900noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1877404255239966498.post-45348834227594070772009-05-13T07:59:00.000-07:002009-05-17T18:32:24.783-07:00Loading firmware on the Surveyor<div>I had some success on the Surveyor this week.</div><div>I uploaded my own firmware. </div><div><br /></div><div>The firmware that comes with the camera board is impressive. It has "commandline" interpreter, PicoC script interpreter, Blob detection, and Edge detection built in. But I needed to get blob centroids and a way to turn off the automatic color balance (which kept changing the colors of my green target to a pink target). </div><div><br /></div><div>I downloaded the latest firmware; this includes:</div><div> source code</div><div> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">srv1.ldr.115K</span> </div><div> (firmware configured for 115Kbps UART communication)</div><div> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">srv1.ldr.250K </span></div><div> (firmware configured for 232Kbps UART comm </div><div> using Matchport radio)</div><div><br /></div><div>I figured that I should try to load the working, precompiled 115K firmware onto the board, before trying my own. </div><div><br /></div><div>The user's forum described the process for loading the new firmware; seemed simple enough.</div><div>However, I can't seem to get it to load right. So now I erased perfectly good firmware off of my board, and couldn't get anything back on. D'oh!</div><div><br /></div><div>Eventually, I found 2 pieces of information:</div><div><br /></div><div>1) The Windows firmware loader that comes with Blackfin compiler, <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">ldr.exe</span>, only works with network connections. Oh. That was annoying, cuz it looked like <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">ldr.exe</span> was connecting properly. To connect using serial comm in Windows, you need <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">ldrviewer.exe</span>. </div><div> </div><div>2) The new firmware is larger than 48K, this requires a two-stage process to put part in the L1 cache (very fast, but only 48K) and rest in SDRAM (slower, but bigger.) So I have to download an old copy of the firmware that is 42K. You load this into the L1 cache first. Then you can use Xmodem to load the new big firmware into the L1 & SDRAM. </div><div><br /></div><div>There was a really good post to lay this out step by step.</div><div><a href="http://www.surveyor.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1205225367/28#28">http://www.surveyor.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1205225367/28#28</a></div><div><br /></div><div>Relief, now I felt good about compiling my own code and loading it up.</div><div>Make went okay, then I followed the process for loading the code.</div><div>I cycle power and, ... burp. A strange character shows up instead of the version number, then everything locks up.</div><div><br /></div><div>I retried several times to no avail. I asked for help on the forum and all that I got was "it works for me" ug. </div><div><br /></div><div>As it happens, I have been dreaming about this project all week with truly tortured sleep. So when I say the answer came to me in a dream, I think I earned it. As I have said before, everyone assumes that you purchased the Matchport radio. The radio uses 232Kbps serial communication. I just assumed that the firmware would default to 115K. So I go hunting around the source code and, tada:</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'courier new';"> baud = 232000;</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'courier new';"> \\ baud = 115200;</span></div><div>Duh! Everything HAD compiled and loaded right, but the camera was just talking too fast for hyperterm to understand.</div><div><br /></div><div>Okay, I can now load my custom firmware code, whoop!</div>Disobedient Tigerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06944114842337202900noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1877404255239966498.post-58285039861344712392009-05-09T06:44:00.000-07:002009-05-17T07:36:28.758-07:00PICKit 1 Flash Starter Kit<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6-vgkkYZvvh_UibH9abzZwZ1wpLd2Wzll2Ukn9bSdKrPhF00viXytmu8RSkBBoEgG01HfLYY0b8_w1TrYU_4t2_P6WMW6GpKX5RCGdCBOezpjbjwWVDGpVvEtTs2ZGrjwgVl9ywEqz8I/s1600-h/PIC+Kit+1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 232px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6-vgkkYZvvh_UibH9abzZwZ1wpLd2Wzll2Ukn9bSdKrPhF00viXytmu8RSkBBoEgG01HfLYY0b8_w1TrYU_4t2_P6WMW6GpKX5RCGdCBOezpjbjwWVDGpVvEtTs2ZGrjwgVl9ywEqz8I/s320/PIC+Kit+1.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5333821988742325538" /></a><br />Okay, so a few years back I bought the PICKit 1 Flash Starter Kit for 8-bit PIC programming.<div>Usb interface. Programs 8 and 14-pin PICs with flash. Now of course the 32-bit version is even cheaper, but it is still a neat board. <a href="http://www.microchip.com/">www.microchip.com</a><div><br /></div><div>I had used it to build an antenna tuner. I used Sony stereo remote to drive a motor back and forth; this would turn the VHF ring on my rabbit ears. It didn't work well, but it was fun to try.</div><div><br /></div><div>I need to get back to basics so I will be trying some simple circuits:</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Sonar<br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>LEDs<br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Optical encoders<br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>H-bridge<br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Servos<br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>POV clock<br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>anything else to justify my $50 purchase so many years back.<br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span><br /></div></div>Disobedient Tigerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06944114842337202900noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1877404255239966498.post-28362690189220371762009-05-03T14:13:00.001-07:002010-01-05T18:25:19.102-08:00Surveyor SRV1 Camera<img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyrvAcsNygQHixfONf3yY01mjGg8KxNejpvtZOFQSDJHTQv8lONVpe472kS1v0APRFV2eNUm82vyOKbaSfuF2aLs1Q5_Y3sc8MJmP8fwjU6TkPVa_u1Yf_KmcldbOD9HD08OLNBwkSPDM/s320/Clipboard01.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 222px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5331735865676628130" />At work, we purchased 2 SRV1 Blackfin Surveyor camera boards for $200 each. <div><a href="http://www.surveyor.com/">http://www.surveyor.com</a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>Basically small cameras attached to a powerful processing board. The Blackfin board is designed as a robot controller with built in image processing. In addition to PWM drivers, I think the default firmware does edge detection, blob tracking and centroid.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>The documentation is sparse. The setup assumes that you bought the wireless radio, and robot body. But the users forum is great. Friendly folks of different experience levels. And the Administrator/Company owner asnwers tech support at night, same day! </div><div>No quibbles there!</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>Actually, it is supposed to work right out of the box: there is a java console to talk to the camera and transfer images (very slowly).</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>Well, mine didn't.</div><div>I needed to setup a serial connection for initial communication. I didn't have a 3.3V power supply (SRV1 is 3.3V processor).</div><div>What I had was</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Sparkfun RS232 shifter (RS 232 to TTL, you supply the voltage)</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Sparkfun FDTI Usb-RS232 with 3.3V output.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>First thought was connect the FDTI Usb-RS232 to RS232 shifter to SRV1, and use 3.3V from FDTI to power the RS232 shifter and SRV1.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi31iVih2wcgkv3UBSgR4bjCKDPhqMsVC7-RIQ8SGc1bRBXCmp4r2ZalK-3qWHBELtCRJFdG5qeMrclu3WGa2oNpLOIKaiHGJz6iEbagV6_gVgsnKmFEx6DdUWQFDVHr0n1iFpgvFwBgKo/s320/Attempt+1.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 93px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336823323992724930" /></div><div>Okay, that didn't work. I figured I had screwed up the TX-RX pins somewhere amongst the multiple chips.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>Second thought was connect the RS232 shifter to SRV1 (plain jane serial connection) and use the 3.3V from FDTI to power the RS232 shifter and SRV1. </div><div style="text-align: center;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihyphenhyphen8KyG1BtgnTkbgmvBDVvqgJnm9nLf9q84QUcYO1oRtYQOsuA52818-K_hbthQQS-WPnE8i61QfnZRz2r9-AtjQ7L1rm5QBs6maSuyoYlGAfLYBcd1k806jvPsGDgBowzBeibfa4JQtI/s320/Attempt+2.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 161px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336823777780383698" /></div><div>That didn't work either. There are 3 LEDs on the SRV1:</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>LED 1 (yellow) RX</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>LED 2 (yellow) TX</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>LED 3 (red)<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Power</div><div>Boot sequence should be all three, then just 2 and 3.</div><div>Only power came on. Quick check showed that the supply voltage dropped to 2.9V</div><div>The FTDI Usb-RS232 3.3V couldn't supply enough current.</div><div><br /></div><div>Well, I thought that I read you could pick off the unregulated battery supply to power it.</div><div>I had a 5V powered breadboard, so I tried that.</div><div>Oh, wow, all 3 LEDs, then just 2 and 3!</div><div>I connected using SRV1 java console, and I got an image! wait, that isn't right?</div><div>The image was mostly covered in black/green/pink rows. </div><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP5_zt8Ywb8pUTb5S0pABIAPYKJvAHSApFDJIiauZiEqE8wvXqErrgqxMttV9I4K8C7nV4H0QglAf6Su3vfzvFBsDZXgoLqZ0akTVO6fAs6qJCPp9m8jo6gdIY9IBB0i2kw096l5Uti2s/s400/camera.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 226px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5331724181921538338" /><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>I assumed that there was a connection problem in my circuit, so I chewed on that for a while. Finally I signed up for the Users Forum and asked for help.<br /></div><div>First question: Are you using 3.3V?</div><div><br /></div><div>Ug, so I borrowed a variable power supply and dialed in 3.3V. A perfect picture appeared!<br /></div><div>Apparently, the blackfin won't boot with less than 3.0V AND the camera gets noisy (green rows) at more than 4.0V.</div><div><br /></div><div>So now I can begin trying to get the camera system to do real work!</div>Disobedient Tigerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06944114842337202900noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1877404255239966498.post-40624930885587676002009-05-02T18:18:00.001-07:002009-05-02T19:17:03.803-07:00Fixing my Archos<div>Well, I was jamming at work, and my Archos slipped off the desk and "crash" hit the floor.</div><div>It got to the end of the song, and a message box appears saying</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:'courier new';">File corrupted</span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>Then I got the dreaded error <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'courier new';"></span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'courier new';">Recovery Code 2, System is damaged. </span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'courier new';">Would you like to recover it? </span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'courier new';">No, </span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'courier new';">repair, </span></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'courier new';">Format Disk</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); line-height: 19px; -webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 1px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 1px;font-family:'courier new';font-size:12px;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:'courier new';">No </span>and <span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:'courier new';">repair <span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Georgia;">didn't do anything. I was afraid of <span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:'courier new';">Format Disk<span class="Apple-style-span" style=" ;font-family:Georgia;">.</span></span></span></span></div><div><br /></div><div>After a quick internet hunt, I found out this was a common problem. D'oh! With a common fix!!!</div><div>Apparently, the harddrive becomes disconnected by just a little bit. All you have to do is open it up and push in the harddrive cable.<br /></div><div><br /></div><div>I tried it, it worked!</div><div><br /></div><div>Here is my journey:</div><div><br /></div><div>Backside of the Archos: battery is on the left, harddrive is on the right.</div><div><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3GrYxpaVSQUU5CZ-tfaky-lp-cTfq18C8Ip53vHi1TMDxY-svOrtPBswkKYFqtLu74ujXjgYDEs7wKLU_1SuFAUkkTdbDceRnMFRL7OJJ_rXy4mkAoG792uxF80R6lJ-PMfUodC5E2P4/s200/archos+back.jpg" style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 125px;" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5331407439038603714" /></div><div>To remove the harddrive, you need to remove 6 tiny screws.</div><div>4 on the end by the LEDs</div><div>To get the other 2, remove the battery </div><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1-g3V1uaM2XzSg8vgYbroJaV_2g4024-vUir0-erkD7v4mIsgox3d9IC5Ft-V3coC3L8KwkgTXrxagvzGK4ItSfMFXIfxAH-L1KTxOPGBm5BOnXJIcgbDsaWxO1ePQ-76dIkqChmI4qc/s1600-h/screws.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1-g3V1uaM2XzSg8vgYbroJaV_2g4024-vUir0-erkD7v4mIsgox3d9IC5Ft-V3coC3L8KwkgTXrxagvzGK4ItSfMFXIfxAH-L1KTxOPGBm5BOnXJIcgbDsaWxO1ePQ-76dIkqChmI4qc/s320/screws.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5331406530292682242" /></a></div><div>The harddrive outer case will come off with a little bit of encouragement.</div><div>You can peel back the harddrive to see the flex cable.</div><div><br /></div><div>Here is where I had a problem. There are 2 floating nut plates (holding the 4 screws by the LEDs). One got wedged out of place. I had to remove the screws holding the motherboard to the case AND separate the LCD from the case. Royal pain in the tookis! Be careful.</div><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLkLJ68ge0jQOpvAPNgrXotmKaPlYI3cvrYGBOWana2gZNBntBVDR4K7Fkh7lxg554cQGDMrOd-OXbzTJ7ms_ilsBlF0AtROwsyyfEFk5LMlze4jGUHOFA2kZdfatJ8QSwjeBOd3Zqq_M/s1600-h/removing+hard+drive+2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLkLJ68ge0jQOpvAPNgrXotmKaPlYI3cvrYGBOWana2gZNBntBVDR4K7Fkh7lxg554cQGDMrOd-OXbzTJ7ms_ilsBlF0AtROwsyyfEFk5LMlze4jGUHOFA2kZdfatJ8QSwjeBOd3Zqq_M/s320/removing+hard+drive+2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5331406815143647618" /></a></div><div>Push the connectors back in. Note, they looked like they were still connect to me. If I hadn't read that was the fix, I wouldn't have tried it.</div><div><br /></div><div>Hope it works for you.</div><div><br /></div>Disobedient Tigerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06944114842337202900noreply@blogger.com0